October 2009The Hilltop GrazerPersistence has paid off for Moshi Moshi. When Mits Akashi opened his sushi restaurant on 18th and Third streets in 1987, live-work condominiums hadn’t yet been constructed in Dogpatch, and only a handful of businesses operated nearby. Locals were steadily drawn to the restaurant, mainly by Mits’ buoyant personality and the friendly staff. Mits still greets every diner personally as he wanders the room clutching a teapot full of hot sake, urging customers to try a glass on the house. But truth to tell, back in the day the food wasn’t the main attraction; it was mediocre, though fairly-priced. Somehow Moshi Moshi survived the Third Street Light Rail construction. For three years there was nowhere to park, the roads were torn up and there was a cloud of dust hovering outside the restaurant’s entrance. Mits slowly made improvements, adding modern furnishings and tableware; fine art on the walls; a clean, fresh look and a choice of three dining areas. In the past, the restaurant’s weakness was its food. But today Moshi serves some of the best sushi around. The menu features numerous choices, with nightly specials of the freshest raw fish in the market. Add to that the extensive cocktail menu and you can see why Moshi Moshi draws diverse crowds. Moshi Moshi is the ultimate neighborhood joint. Bayview families; parents with their young kids along with their octogenarian grandparents; long tables of 20-somethings whooping it up; and Hill residents who’ve treated Moshi as a second home for the past two decades. The Hilltop Grazer (aka, the Gourmet Goat) usually passes on the entrees and orders appetizers and sushi dishes. The entrees are good, solid food; the Bento box is an especially good deal; a whole meal for around $13. But, white rice and grilled salmon or tuna doesn’t perk up this Goat’s ears. Rustic dishes, like the pire-ten appetizer ($8.95) – grease-free calamari and green beans in a tempura batter tossed with sautéed onions and diced jalapenos – have this Goat bleeting with joy. The gyoza (Japanese dumplings; $7.95 for six) have a silky texture and slide right down; especially good when chased by a Sapporo or an Anchor Steam draft beer. The Dynasty of Love maki roll ($13.95) is divine – a whole meal in a roll; this is better than chewing the cud at Jackson Playground. Maybe the best maki roll in the City! The udon soups ($9 to $12) are especially welcome on a cool San Francisco day. The menu has a two page cocktail list, several different sakes, fine beers on draft and some acceptable wines. But who drinks wine with sushi? Mits and the Moshi crowd are raising the bar and people are noticing. Become one of the Moshi Moshi family and you’ll have a second home on the Hill.
Food – 2 ½ bleets Service – 2 ½ bleets Atmosphere – 2 bleets (3 bleets when the joint is jumping!) Community – 4 bleets
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